PALOMA LACY puts Norbury’s newest restaurant to the test
Norbury locals’ dream of a broader dining scene came true when the guys from Fort Smokehouse rode into town. Three businessmen brothers are sharing their passion for Texan BBQ with Norbury diners.
This is family dining. I visited one Friday and every table was taken by a family, including mine. All are most definitely welcome here. Anyone with young children knows this is not always the case when it comes to eating out.
I loved the décor, with stone-clad walls, exposed wooden beams and iron chandeliers – reminiscent of the Tales of King Arthur. The ambience is casual – food is ordered at the till and brought to tables on a tray. The menu is small, and when the day’s food is gone, it’s gone.
The focus here is on high-quality smoked meat – chicken, beef and lamb – prepared to create an artisanal product, and served with house-made components. Everything is made from scratch and it shows.
The highlights for me were, in no particular order, beef brisket – served with Texas toast [brioche], pickles and house sauce (£12). Juicy, succulent meat that fell apart, packed with flavour, as a result of a 12-hour smoking, and overnight resting to maximise flavour.
Beef ribs – £22 – were served with the meat removed – thank you – and a bone on the side. Perhaps for decoration or a gentle reminder of the enormous size of the beast from which it had come. It reminded me of a scene from The Flintstones. The price point may appear steep but the 400g portion made a great sharing dish for two and a half people.
Smokin’!: clockwise: fries, lamb barbacoa, beef ribs and beef brisket
Both brisket and ribs are given the traditional Texas BBQ treatment – marinated in salt, pepper and garlic. There are a multitude of beef options on the menu and surprisingly pastrami, uncommon as it is to see it on a Halal menu. In fact, I’ve never seen it served in a Halal establishment. Fort Smokehouse does it justice.
Brined for seven days, for that unmistakable flavour and tenderness combo, it’s a showstopper, and therefore is often sold out. My husband was like a man possessed in his quest for dominance over the dish. We barely stood a chance.
Unmatched: Fort Smokehouse’s macaroni cheese, with added Red Leicester
These guys know what they are doing. I was a little surprised to taste one of the finest macaroni cheese I’ve ever eaten. The approach was a classic multiple cheese one – a must in my book – including Mozarella, Cheddar and Red Leicester. Oozy, creamy, a complete cheese-fest. It needs to be tasted to be believed. The inclusion of Red Leicester levelled up this dish. Thanks for the tip, guys.
The menu is beef heavy, though chicken and lamb are available.
Lamb Barbacoa (£11) – tacos filled with meat, grilled cheese and salsa, is a nice menu twist.
Having trouble deciding what to order? The Samplers Platter (£65) might be the way to go: salt beef or pastrami sandwich, lamb barbacoa, beef brisket, pulled beef, hot link (house-made sausages, which I tried and wholeheartedly endorse), quarter chicken and three sides. According to the menu, it serves two to three people. Having seen the portion sizes, it could likely serve a family of four, maybe even five.
The restaurant’s Halal status means there’s no booze on offer here. Fear not, beer and wine lovers, local pub – The Moon Under Water – has your back. No more than a minute’s walk, and you’ll feel the cosy arm of JD Wetherspoon, with its staggeringly cheap drinks offering.
- Paloma Lacy enjoyed her meal for Inside Croydon courtesy of Fort Smokehouse
- Fort Smokehouse, 1369 London Rd, Norbury, London SW16 4BE. Open Wednesdays to Sundays from 4pm-11pm
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